Short Break on the Lough Derg Blueway

Killaloe/Ballina image

Day 1


What better way to start the day than a walk around the historic town of Killaloe, weaving around the town's sites of interest, from tiny oratories to places connected to Brian Boru.  Or if you prefer to hear the story of the town then a guided tour with Úna at Killaloe Heritage Tours is a must.

You might be hungry after all that walking, just across from St Flannan's Oratory is Ponte Vecchio.   Ponte Vecchio is everything a café should be: characterful, friendly and full of great coffee and food.  A very popular spot with the locals. Grab a book, sink into a squishy sofa and take it easy.

After lunch, it's time to get out on the water. Killaloe River Cruises offers daily one-hour tours of the River Shannon and Lough Derg, and is ideal for soaking up the scenery, history and heritage of the area. Feeling adventurous? After the tour, head out to one of the lough's only sandy beaches at Ballycuggaran for a spot of open swimming (bring a wetsuit). If you don't fancy a dip, you can feed the ducks and swans, or take a stroll along the shore. Back in town, head across the arched bridge to the Tuscany Bistro over in Ballina – it serves great Italian cuisine with a large dose of Irish hospitality. Finish the day by enjoying a nightcap in the traditional pub Goosers, with its flagstone floor, wood panelling and whitewashed stone walls.

Killaloe/Ballina - Portumna image

Day 2

Killaloe/Ballina - Portumna

Heading northeast out of Killaloe/Ballina, it's not long before you're surrounded by the astonishing scenery of Lough Derg. Pause for a while at the viewing point at Portroe, and enjoy the landscape of blues and greens that unfolds before you. From Portroe, the next stop is Nenagh, Tipperary's second largest town and a place famous for its 13th century castle. It's definitely worth taking a tour of the castle – it has the finest keep on the island of Ireland. Climb the 101 steps and you'll soon reach the top where bursts of fresh air and panoramic views make the effort all worthwhile.

Back on the road, a landscape of undulating green fields dotted with cows and sheep will keep you company until you get to the tiny village of Terryglass. Drop into the Derg Inn for lunch – it's a relaxed local favourite and does a good line in soups, stews, sandwiches and daily specials. Just next door sits the ruins of a 6th century monastery, while if you wander down the road towards the harbour, you'll come across the curious Headache Well. Set in a very pretty spot down by a gentle river, the well is said to cure sore heads and migraines – maybe its secret lies in the fact that it's simply a beautiful place to just sit and relax.

Next up is Portumna ­– you could spend a whole weekend in this lively town and not run out of things to do, but for an afternoon's visit, you'll have to make some choices. One place not to miss out on is The Irish Workhouse Centre, where enthusiastic local guides will open your eyes to the horrors of what was described as "the most feared and hated institution ever established in Ireland". It would be a real shame, too, to come to Portumna and not see the town's incredible 17th century castle and gardens or Portumna Abbey.

Portumna Forest is prime territory for nature-lovers thanks to its wonderful walking trails, bouncy wild deer and views of the lough. You can opt for the short Woodland Trail if you like, but it's worth spending the time enjoying the Rinmaher or Bonaveen walking trails, both around 10km. Stick around Portumna for dinner with a tasty downhome pizza at the friendly pizzeria The Beehive.  Welcoming and well-priced, it makes the perfect go-to after a day exploring before heading back to Killaloe/Ballina.

Portumna - Killaloe/Ballina image

Day 3

Portumna - Killaloe/Ballina

If you're a keen kayaker, then a guided tour with My Next Adventure along the glassy canal at Killaloe and into the waters of Lough Derg is a must. No experience? Don't panic, each tour has an expert guide and there's tuition before theto get your skills up to scratch, before heading out onto the open water. It's a beautiful way to spend a morning, gliding past gentle reeds and into the heart of nature. Once you're done, stroll up to the super-cute Wooden Spoon café on Bridge Street and fill up with a takeaway lunch.

Then it's time to get on the road and explore the northwest side of the lough, with the small village of Tuamgraney your first stop. The village, which is neatly set around a smart green, boasts the oldest church in continuous use in Ireland – 10th century St Cronan's. Brian Boru is said to have worshipped here, and its features include cyclopean masonry, a stunning stained-glass window and an ancient doorway. Drop into McKernan Woollen Mills afterwards to browse the warm, woollen creations, before heading to Wilde Irish Chocolates. Over 80 types of chocolates are made at this tiny artisan factory, and visitors are welcome to drop in, taste some chocolates and see where the magic happens.

Next up is the 18th century village of Mountshannon, with its lovely harbour and views of Bushy Island, where a pair of the lough's rare white-tailed eagles reside. The pier at the harbour in Mountshannon is also the place to take a trip out to the 6th century monastic island of Inis Cealtra or Holy Island. The island was a popular place with pilgrims up to the 19th century, and has a fascinating story, including Viking raids during the 9th and 10th centuries and a church built by Brian Boru himself. You can relax and ponder the experience afterwards with a laid-back dinner of tapas, salad or pizza at The Snug in the village.